OLD INVERNESS-SHIRE
NOTES BY A HIGHLAND CHIEF
IN 1784
Owing to the courtesy of Mr Mackintosh of Raigmore the following " Notes" written by Sir Aeneas Mackintosh of Mackintosh in 1784, have been made available for publication:
They cover a period of seven weeks in September and October of that year and are of interest because of the sidelights they cast on the social and economic conditions and the life of the time in the county and town of Inverness:
As Sir Aeneas relates, he had long intended to pay a visit to his estates in Lochaber, and the "Notes" open with a description of these, and thereafter continue in diary form. Sir Aeneas had served in the American War of Independence from 1776 to 1783 as a Captain in Fraser's Highlanders, so this was probably his first visit to Lochaber after his return home.
The "Notes" are contained in a small notebook which Raigmore discovered recently while looking through some old papers.
NOTES BY SIR AENEAS MACKINTOSH OF MACKINTOSH
Inveroymore marches with Achinreach, at the river and to the foot of the hill the march is clear, but in the hill ground there is a trifling dispute betwixt the Duke of Gordon and me:
When this is settled a march dyke should be built. Inveroybeg comes next. There is a lime quarry of excellent blew stone of a good quality, level with the surface and wrought without blowing-the peat moss is some distance up the hill.
Both farms consist.of level fields and looks a good corn field- next Keppoch at the foot of a bank and extending to the River Spean; much ground could be converted to arable field by draining. The Roy and Spean abounded with fish..
Lot Ist. Inveroymore and Boline.
2nd. Keppoch Mill thereof and Inveroybeg.
3rd. Nr. Bohuntine, next Keppoch, without the sheal of Feyheal and Colarish.
4th. E. Bohuntine and Achvady
5th. Brearach, Bochasky, Brunachan - Rienach with the North side of the Burn of Den-gald presently possessed by Crenachan.
6th. Blarnahinvine and Crenachan without any
part of the grazing of Derkheld. The wood in this lot to be preserved.
7th. Bohinnie, the shealing of Royogag presently belonging to Achlocheak and Achaderry.
8th. Achlochrich, without the sheal of Mayvory, Murlagan, and Gligaster, together with the South side of the grazing of Derkeld.
9th. Tulloch, Dalnaderg, Tolle, and Urquhar, with the sheal of Toyheal, belonging to Bohuntine. N.B.-This lot and No. 5 the best for sheep farms.
Salmon this far, till the Duke of Gordon shut up the mouth of the rivers at the Castle of Inverlochy by cruives (by what right to be enquired into)-fine meadow ground and corn field wants enclosing and a few belts of planting. No stones but out of the rivers, the moss close to the place-the Spean is the march betwixt the Duke of Gordon and me, and the Roy boundary twixt it, and Achaderry, A fine bank of young oak fronting Keppoch extends for a mile and a half which can be easily enclosed- the Spean running the whole length, having a ……….. and the Roy the whole breadth, so that a straight line of a sunk fence faced with stone or a double turf dyke such as at Moy would do. Near the end of the oak there commences a birch and other wood tolerably high. The part of the oak wood near Spean can be cut in ten years.
Achlochrich-A fine fall of water called a linn stops the salmon from getting further up the country, If people of the Duke had not stopped up the river would willingly be at the expense of blowing this linn. The farm a fine flat, green hills but no wood ---here is the burial place of the former family of Keppoch and Chapel built by one of the Lochiels, being one of seven built by him in order to pacify the Pope (by whom) for his great wickedness he had been ex-communicated.
Murlagan-A bulwark necessary to be built in front of the houne.
Tullich and Dulderig-Fine flat corn country.,
The Charters relative to the Lochaber to be very pointedly examined with respect to the Proprietor's title and right of fishing, as for a few years past the same is totally monopolized by the Duke of Gordon's having quite shut up the mouth of the river with cruives and other engines wholly to prevent a single fish getting up the river.
Tolley-Little corn, but much grass. A small strip of ground, called Clachach from the ruggedness of the ground, by some mistake intervines here, and has been reckoned the property of the Duke of Gordon. Keppoch for some years paid the Duke 15s of yearly rent for it, but has since discontinued it. Whatever may happen it is a mere trifle, and I dare say Mr Todd and I will easily settle it.
Urquhar-Fine meadow with excellent grass. Moy and Culross belonging to the Duke near it, very proper for my estate in Lochaber. Much rough grass and fine sheals on the top of a hill.
Western Bohuntine Good appearance of oak wood, should be enolosed. Bolyn in view, good corn ground.
Bohinnie-Eastern Bohuntine, good corn field without grass.
Crenachan-The River Roy runs in the front of the farm and a deep gullet of a burn on one side, on each side of which grows fine oaks and ash trees, the Tenant of which, like a grand Rogue, not only cut the wood but with great assurance sold the bark at Fort-William. Easily enclosed is the whole farm, and having fine grass will make a good wintering for black cattle.
Achvadie—A promising arn wood and a good wintering.
Briagach-Good for corn.
Bochasky-Arn wood, proper for wintering.
Rinach-Good pasturage.
Bochasky, Achavatie. Anecdote of it - The Earl of Marr, Commander for the King of Scotland, when surprised and defeated by MacDonald, Lord of the Isles, at the Battle of Inverlochy, did not halt on his retreat till he arrived at this place. The then Proprietor of it, having neither bread or blankets for the Earl, killed a cow and covered the Earl at night with the skin.
Having for a long time intended to visit Lochaber, and inspect the different farms, accordingly everything being prepared, I set out from Moy Hall after dinner on the evening of the first September 1784, in company with Captain Lachlan MacIntosh of Clune and my Factor, Passed the night at Farr, his Wife not being well made the house not so cheerful as usual. However, Farr entertained us very friendly.
2nd (Sept.) Set out by ten in the moring; called Elirig and desired Mr Mclntosh to have in readiness all the people who knew anything of the marches betwixt the Duke's lands of Bannaughtane and mine of Duntelchaig and betwixt Dalcromby and Elrick, and that I should ride over said marches on my return from Lochaber. Dine and pass the night at Dumnaglass, where I was joined by Captain Donald McIntosh from Inverness, whom I had asked to accompany me in order that when any of the Lochabrians plagued me, he might amuse them and give me time to attend my business. Find here a large Company.
3rd (Sept.) Leave this place at ten in the morning; call at Mr Fraser, the Sheriff's house of Faraline pleasantly situated betwixt a wood and a large lake, the place enclosed and several improyements going on. Dine at Mr Grant's, the Minister of Boleskine. His late married wife entertained us very politely, Mr Grant not being at home. About a mile to the West get into the great Road, pass some good farms. The view from the high hill above Fort-Augustus is vastly picturesque, being covered with wood and rich" pasture, but the road very rugged for carriages. The Fort appears like a Nobleman's Chatteau, beautifully situated, having the end of the Loch a mile broad in front, and two large Rivers on each side. The Fort is a square. The adjacent country within a mile -a fine flat- belongs to the Governor. A number of country houses forming a village increase his revenue by paying small yearly rent. The Tavern is tolerably good. Call for the Governor but not at home.The Galley is stationed at this place, value £124.
4th (Sept.) Leave this place at six in the morning, pass Laggan, Achendrome, where there is a military station to prevent theft. This is part of the Estate of Abertarf, formerly in possession of Glengarry, sold to Mr Hall and by him to Lovat. This is the chief residence of the Kennedys, a race notorious for theft. Reach Loch Oich, a large body of water, see the House and place of Invergarry, taking its name from the River Garry, which falls into the lake near the house.
The road goes along the lake for several miles through a promising wood, and very fine wintering.
Proceed to Letterfintaig, opposite to which Glengarry bounds with Lochiel-here Mr Butler, late Factor to that Estate, holds a large farm of Glengarry. The Kennedys lived here, but being turned out for their malpractices live at free quarters on all their neighbours, particularly on Mr Butler and Stoddart his partner, having already destroyed and taken away in a short time 750 sheep. The late General Fraser Lovat, with a political but very imprudent step, took them by the hand and settled them at the former place to the great loss and trouble of their neighbours, but as now Lovat's lands are to be set, they will be turned out, and God knows what mischief may follow, as they go armed and rob every-where. Letterfintaig a sad house. No bread till baked, and then none but barley, however, with which butter, cheese and milk we made a good breakfast.
At the end of the Loch was fought the battle betwixt. the Frasers and Macdonalds in the year 1544, when the Chief and Master of Lovat with most of his followers were killed. Four miles from this come to Low Bridge. Little corn here, fine pasturage, large fields of potatoes on which the country people mostly live, miserable hovels. See the place of Achnacarry, the residence of Lochiel before the '45, where a curious house and offices built of wood were burnt. There were also fine gardens in which the troops encamped, and hanging their pots on the fruit trees the marks of them on the bark is still visible.
Next come to High Bridge, built over the River Spean.
I daresay the height of the parapet of the Bridge from the level of the water is at least 120 feet; the face of the country the same, with high mountains on each side. At the distance of six miles see Fort-William. See several fine farms belonging to His Grace of Gordon. Within a mile of the Fort observe a great smoke, which looked like the piace being on fire.
Pass Glencavish, which, when Pennant saw, he cried out, "Farewell, Snowdown is 1760 yards above the level of the sea." On the right pass the old Castle of Inverlochy, built a square building having turrets at each corner. Within the Court are the necessary buildings for the Duke of Gordon's salmon fishery. On the right pass Fort-William, of a triangular form having a ravelin to cover the gate. The works are in ruin, and most of the Barracks. The flags were displayed from the fort and two vessels in Loch Lochy -on approaching the village of Marebrough, named in honour of Mary Queen of William.
On the esplanade see a large bonfire, with a table covered with wine and glasses and surrounded by a number of people, one of whom (Mr Cameron) with a wooden leg advanced from among them, and, accosting us, told us that the Gentlemen of the name of Cameron were assembled to make merry of their Chief's getting his Estate, and, wishing us to drink of this; we readily did, drinking health and prosperity to the family of Lochiel. Fassifern, nearest reiation to the Chief, waited on us to invite us to dinner: Accordingly attend him, meet twenty more, when the King's health was given, the King……….. fired away, all salute. The principal promoters of the Bill for discovering the forfeited Estates and Highland Chiefs were the only toasts. I and company retired early to a party of ladies assembled at Miss Mally McIntosh's, where we danced and supped, a party of Inverness ladies meeting us here.
5th (Sept.) Go to a small Chapel near. Mr Gordon, he an itinerant parson, preaches very well but long. After dinner proceed for Tiendrish, where Mr Ross, Parson of Kilmaniveack, resided, and where I proposed taking up my quarters. The ground on which Marybrough stands belongs to the Duke of Gordon. Here are several good houses, and if His Grace would give encouragement it would soon become a place of trade. Loch Lochy from the sea and many miles further up is navigable for the first rate Man of War, free from rocks and sand, and could be entered at all times of tide if a rapid current about six miles lower at low water did not prevent. It abounds with herring, cole fish and small rock cod, the first of which with potato is the principal food of the peasants.
At this time a Doctor Anderson, employed by Parliament to inspect the lakes, creeks and bays in the West Coast and Islands of Scotland in order to make a report of the proper method of encouraging the fisheries on them. He had also directions to view the ground from Fort-Augustus to Fort-William to know at what expense a Canal might be made betwixt the East and West Coast. It is said £60,000 would be sufficient for that purpose, there being only a clear cut of 7 or 8 miles, and a widening of Lochs and Rivers for 17 miles.
About 7 o'clock reach Tindrish, where we found Mr Ross ready to receive us, and upon entering & neat house, found the Landlady a very agreeable young woman at the tea table to entertain us. She is Sister to Fassifearn. This place is prettily situated on a sloping bank surrounded by a number of fine young oaks, the only wood of that sort of consequence in the country. The Parson seems attentive and a good farmer, begins to lime his lands and sow clover and rye grass. Remain all night here.
6th (Sept.) In the morning send Captain Lachlan to Keppoch, and after breakfast proceed to that place. There I meet several of the Lochaber Tenants, see Mrs Cargill, a West Indian widow, who was married to Mr Macdonell, Keppoch's brother, and has a jointure of £700 Stg. per annum. Macdonald, Tacksman of Tullich, engages us to dine with him. Remain an hour at Keppoch, then proceed to Urquhar, the farthest off of my property in Spean, as mentioned page 4. Dine at Tullich. It rains very heavy in the afternoon. Ronald Macdonald, Aberarder, shows several feats of agility, such as putting his heel to the back of his head, cutting capers, etc., ete. Before we proceed two miles it turns dark and rains and blows. However, about eight, reach Keppoch; sup and getting some warm punch go to bed. Mrs Macdonald gives us some good songs. Macdonald of Achtriachan, a man of some humour, entertains us with a Salavonian song, which I look upon as a hodge podge of Scots words jumbled together. CaptainDonald, when he got his grog, roared out, " Hearts of Oak." Mrs Cargill, though she could sing well, made the apology of all good singers—" That she had a cold."
7th (Sept.) Did not breakfast till ten, and it was twelve before I could get on horseback. This day, contrary to my inclination, we were fourteen horse strong and proceeded up Glenroy. That great artificial curiosity, the parallel roads, commences here. There are three lines o them. They are so broad as to admit two coaches abreast and run about the middle of the high hills on each side o the Glen. Various are people's opinions respecting the formers of them and their reasons. Some say the Romans made them with intention to penetrate into the centre of Scotland by the West Coast, but as the Romans' own author Tacitus, says nothing on the subject, and no monuments remain of their being beyond Dunkeld or Aberdeen, I think this idea without foundation. Others say that when the Scots Kings lived on the West Coast, when the first treaty was made with France in time of King Achaeus, in order to entertain the ambassadors caused these Roads be formed, that from them they might have an opportunity of pursuing and shooting the deer and other game, and this treaty is dated at Inverlochy. But what conjecture is just, I can't pretend to say.
Betwixt Achvadie and Briagach ascend a high hill, Ben Eiran, in order to have a view of my whole Estate, and see it very distinctly except one or two farms, of which I had a pretty good idea. The Lochabrians not well pleased at seeing me so particular. To some that followed I said that there was no necessity for their taking the trouble, besides that I wished being alone, upon which they retired. About four get beyond my march. The farms of Annal and Lykeroy bound with my property, and there is some dispute in the hills of Brea-Glenroy. These two farms would make my Estate a very complete one. About five stop at a sort of Tavern, at Lykeroy, get some bread, butter and cheese, with a drink of grog, and that night by ten reach Garvamore, the people all in bed.
8th (Sept.) Set off by seven, breakfast at Dalwhily, a farm possessed by Parson Robert Macpherson, and dine at
