Brae Lochaber
The south-west of the mainland of Inverness-shire of old consisted of three lordships, comprehending all the lands whose waters flow into the Atlantic. These were—Ist, The lordship of Lochaber, which contained the whole of the present parish of Kilmonivaig, including a great part of Kilmallie, from Glengarry to the head of Lochiel; 2nd, the lordship of Mamore, which contained that part of Kilmallie west and south of Kilmonivaig, between Lochs Linnhe and Leven; and 3rd, The lordship of Gartrnoran, which included Ardgour in Kilmallie, Sunart, and Ardnamurchan, and the parish of Small Isles, with all the present west mainland of Invernes-shire from Moydart to Knoydart and Glenelg. I shall here speak more particularly of the lordship of Lochaber, which for a time was possessed, or rather swayed, by a branch of the powerful family of Comyn. These Cornyns were aliens and, differing from those of Badenoch, taking no great root in the territory. In the chartulary of Moray, under date 1234, there is a deed witnessed inter alia by Ferquhar, Seneschal of Badenoch, and by Edward, Seneschal of Lochaber. The former was undoubtedly the predecessor of The Mackintosh, and I identify Edward above-named as Farquhar's younger brother, afterwards predecessor of the Toshachs of Monzievaird. Ferquhar's nephew and in time successor, also named Ferquhar, married Mora, daughter, according to the Mackintosh Latin History, "of Angus Oig Macdonald of the Isles, who was son to Angus Mor Macdonald-vicRailt .vic-Soirle-vic-Gilliebride." This connection with the Macdonalds and the subsequent marriage of Angus Mackintosh, only child of the above Ferquhar Mackintosh and Mora Macdonald, with Eva, heiress of the Clan Chattan, in 1291, formed the bases of that close communing and intercourse between the Mackintoshes and Lochaber which has now subsisted for upwards of six hundred years without a break.
After the battle of Bannockburn and the expulsion of the Comyns, the heriditary foes of Bruce, from Lochaher, the lands then in the hands of the Crown were granted to the Macdonalds, the Brae of Lochaber, including the whole parish of Kilmonivaig east of Lochy, being thereafter gifted by John Lord of the Isles to his son, Alexander Carrach, first of Keppoch. Alexander probably had a charter, but his estate being forfeited it fell back to the Lords of the Isles, and powerful, quasi independent as they were, and able for centuries to remain in the Brae in direct descent up to about 1790, leaders of a valiant branch of the Clan Donald, the Macdonells of Keppoch had no indefeasible titles, and were merely tenants or wadsetters of the Mackintoshes and the Gordons. This says much for their indomitable pluck and tenacity.
The Lords of the Isles showed great unfriendliness to the Keppochs, and also to the Clan Cameron, but they were most friendly with the Mackintoshes. The latter were in constant trouble with the Camerons as to their lands in Glenlui and Loch Arkaig in Kilmallie, which they inherited through the above Eva; and Alexander of Yle Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles, in reward of past services and to strengthen the Mackintoshes, in 1443 renewed the grant of Glenlui and Loch Arkaig, and gave the Brae of Lochaher to Malcolm, tenth of Mackintosh. This estate of over 30,000 acres comprehends one side of Glen Spean, and both sides of Glen Roy, with the exception of the upper part of the latter, namely, the farms of Glenturrett, Leckroy, and Annat, all now called Braeroy.
Further, in 1447 the above Alexander, whose sister Florence had married Duncan, son and heir of Malcolm Mackintosh, granted the bailliarie or stewarty of all Lochaber to Malcolm in perpetual fee and heritage. The office of ballle, particularly of a lordship, was much sought after in old times, being an office not only of emolument, but in every probability leading to better things. Even the powerful Earls of Argyll got their first hold of Tyree as bailies thereof under the Macleans, who had acquired from Iona. This grant of bailliarie of Lochaber is in splendid preservation, as is also the huge seal of the Earl. It was registered at Edinburgh on the 23rd August, 1781. Translated from the Latin, it is as follows, being the earliest original Lochaber charter I have seen, except the one dated 1443 above referred to :-
"To all who may see or hear this charter, Alexander de Yle, Earl of Ross, and Lord of the Isles, wishes eternal salvation in the Lord. Know ye that we have given, granted, and by this our present writ have confirmed to our most trusty cousin, Malcolm Mackintosh, in recompense of his assistance, all and whole the office of bailliarie or stewardship, of all and sundry the lands of our lordship of Lochaber, to be held and possessed the said office with all and sundry pertmnents to the said office belonging, or can partly in future in any way belong, by the said Malcolm Mackintosh, and all his heirs-male, begotten, or to be begotten, of us and all our heirs, in fee and heritage for ever, as freely peacefully well and in quiet, as any office of bailliarie or stewardship granted for ever in a charter of confirmation, to any other Bailie in the whole kingdom of Scotland. Which office as aforesaid we, Alexander Earl and Lord aforesaid, and our heirs, to the aforesaid Malcolm and his heirs as foresaid against whatsoever mortals, shall warrant as just and forever defend. In testimony of all the premises we have caused our seal to b appended to these presents, at our Castle of Dingwall, the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year of the Lord one thousand four hundred and forty-seven, these being present as witnesses Torquil Macleod, Lord of the Lewes, John Macleod, Lord of Glenelg, Celestine of the Isles, my natural son (filio meo naturale), Nigel Flemyng my secretary, and Donald my Justiciar, with divers others."
It has to be kept in mind that after the forfeiture of the Lords of the Isles, both the lordships of Mamore and Lochaber fell to the Crown. Mamore sunk and was absorbed into the lordship of Lochaber, which about 1500 was granted to the Earl of Huntly. Mackintosh, having after the forfeiture, been wise enough to get Glenluie, Loch Arkaig, the Brae, and the bailliarie, confirmed to him by the Crown by charter dated 14th July, 1476, was not only entirely free of the Gordons as the new Lords of Lochaber, but had the power, and exercised it, of bailliarie over the whole of Gordon's Lochaber estates. The title of Seneschal or Steward is to this day acknowledged in the Crown charters, for all it is worth since the abolition of Heritable Jurisdictions. Lochiel frequently attempted to stop Mackintosh by force of arms from holding Courts. I have read the minutes of several, the last which I recollect being held at Leckroy by Murdo Macpherson of Clune as Depute Steward in 1677, when, among other business, the escheat of those concerned in the murder of Keppoch is dealt with. When Mackintosh, by the armed interference of Breadalbane, had to sell GlenIuie and Locharkaig, the bailliarie of these lands was included in the sale.
In the old times rights were not safe until confirmed by the superior for the time, so Malcolm Mackintosh, under the hands of a Procurator, insisted that John, third and last Lord of the Isles, should enter him, which John accordingly did by a precept furth of his own chancellarie, dated 14th June, 1456, on which Malcolm was infeft on the 18th July, 1456. Duncan Mackintosh, Malcolm's son and successor, who, I have said, took the precaution of being entered with the Crown in 1476, had previously entered with John, Lord of the Isles, by charter dated the 14th November, 1466. No doubt the Camerons were in possession of lands long before the Gordons, but latterly all Lochaber in Inverness- shire, with the exception of Mackintosh's lands, was held of the Gordon's, such as Lochiel, for his part of Mamore, Letterfinlay, Glenevis, Callart, Kinlochleven, etc.
As their lands in Lochaber lay at a considerable distance from where the Mackintoshes finally took UI) their abode at the Isle of Moy, it followed that old neigbours, or the actual possessors, coveted their ownership. The well- meant action of Alexander, Lord of the Isles, in his grant of the Brae, greatly helped Mackintosh in his contests with Lochiel, but at the same time had the effect of raising a new enemy in the Macdonalds of Keppoch, who, whatever their feuds among themselves, always united against Mackintosh. Pride, family and clan importance, revenge for frequent slaughters, harryings, and slights, combined in a determination by the Mackintoshes never to part with or relinquish the possession of these lands. In 1547, Mackintosh made his most successful attack and succeeded in getting the heads of both Lochiel and Keppoch struck off. The countenance of Huntly, rarely given to Mackintosh, granted for his own ends on this particular occasion, was soon withdrawn, and the struggles were renewed. But it would be out of place here to enlarge upon them.
Besides leasing practically the whole of Brae Lochaber, Keppoch leased or wadsetted from the Gordons the whole of what was lately known as the Loch Treig and Inverlochy estates, and was entered for L400 of cess in the valuation roll of 1691.
The present inhabitants of the Brae are amongst the very few in the Highlands who are the direct representatives of those who have held the same possessions for centuries. Even some of the Keppoch family are still there, and I have a distinct recollection of one of the Inveroy tenants, at Achnacroish, several years ago, giving me the names of his seven predecessors until the line ran into that of the Chief. Under the circumstances, so honourable to the Mackintoshes and their tenants, it may interest at least the latter to know the names of some of the chief tenants in 165, held bound for their sub-tenants, cottars and dependents. These were, the minors Alexander and Ranald Macdonell of Keppoch, sons of Donald Glas, and their uncle Alexander Macdonald Buidhe, their "pretended" tutor, for Keppoch, Inveroybeg, Achaderry, Bregach, Tollie, Uracher, arid Almie ; the tutor personally for Bohuntin, Kinchellie, Auchavaddie and Bohinie; Alastair-vic-Aonas-oig for Bohuntin Ville, Crenachan, Brunachan, Achluachrach and Kilchaoril ; Allister vic Allister, and his sons Allister and Donald, for Reanach ; Allan-vic-Coil-roy-vic-Coil-vic-Allan for Bochasky; Donald vic Robert, and his sons John, Allan, and Donald, for Murligan and Glen Glaster; Allister-vicAonas-vic-Ian dhu, for Tulloch and Dallindundearg; Allister-vic-Aonas-roy for Blarnahinven; and Donald Gorme Macdonald for Inveroymore. At a later period in 1728, the tenants in Inveroymore and Inveroybeg, Keppoch, Acaderry, Bohinie, Crenachan, Blarnahinven, Bochaskie, Reanach, and Brunachan, were as follows, but I much regret that the remaining tenants of the Brae at that period cannot he given. Inveroymore—John Macdonald, tacksman Alexander Macdonald, Duncan Maclachlan, Duncan vic lain, Duncan dhu vic Ewiri, vic lain, John Vic Walter, Duncan Mac lain Oig, alias Cameron, John Macdonald, son to Inveroy. Inveroybeg—Donald Mac Dugald vic Glassich, Angus Mac Harlich, Angus Mac Soirle vic lain reach, I)ugald Mac Aonas vic Glassich, and Donald Maclachian. Keppoch—Ewen Mac Eachen, John Mac Eachen, Angus Mac Dougall, Archibald vic Ewen, Duncan Mac lain vic Iver, Angus Mac Coil Oig, Donald Mac Gillespick, alias Macdonald, Kenneth Ferguson, Kenneth Mackenzie, and Alexander Macphadrick. Achaderry—Donald Mac Ewen, John vic Conchie mor, Alexander Beaton, John Beaton, Donald Beaton, and Donald-vic-lain-vic-Coil-roy. Bohinie—John vic Conchie vic lain, Farquhar vic Conchie vic lain, Angus vic Glassich, Donald Mac Allister, John Macdonald vic Allister, and Allan Macdonald vic Allister. Crenachan—John Macdonald, Angus Cameron, Donald Mac Arthur arid Angus Mac lain. Blarnahinven —Alexander Macdonald, tacksman; Angus Macdonald and John Macdonald. Bochaskie—Angus Macpherson, Donald Macpherson, Donald Macpherson, and Paul Macpherson. Reanach—John Macdonald, and Allan Roy. Brun achan—Alexander Mac Arthur, Donald Mac Arthur, Charles Mac Arthur, Alexander Mac Arthur, and Archibald Mac Arthur.
It was the policy of successive Mackintosh chiefs to give a prominent position to their loyal people in every district, and at an early period the honourable position of hereditary standard-bearer was conferred upon the family of Macdonald of Murligan. It did not necessarily follow that the standard- bearer was of the same name as the chief, and I observe, for instance, that when the Macgregors appeared before George IV. in Edinburgh in 1822, under Sir Evan Murray Macgregor—from long established friendship and succour in the time of need, the Macphersons becoming hereditary standard-bearers of the Macgregors—Captain Mungo Macpherson of the 42nd Highlanders, and Mr Duncan Macpherson, of Kingussie, carried the banner of Clan Gregor.
In Sir Eneas Mackintosh's memoirs, written circa 1774-1784, he says—"the hereditary standard-bearer to Mackintosh is Macdonald, whose descendants live in Glenroy and speak nothing but Gaelic." I have seldom seen a more curious paper than that now to be given. In a period of transition, though some time before the passing of the abolition of Heritable Jurisdictions, it serves to illustrate the views then held by a great chief as to dealing with one of his important office-bearers. The paper is docquetted "Obligation and Declaration. Angus Macdonell of Muirlaggan, to the Laird of Mackintosh, 1727," and is as follows:-
"Be it known to all men, by these presents, me, Angus Macdonell of Murligan : Forasmuch as the Honourable Lachlan Mackintosh of that ilk, Captain of Clan Chattan, my master, has at the date hereof, recognised and preferred me to be his Ensign and Banner Bearer, which my predecessors have always been these three hundred years and upwards—except since the eighty-eighth year of God— (1688) for which service and towards the support of my family, the said Lachlan Mackintosh has at the date hereof allowed me twenty merks Scots yearly of the sum of two hundred merks money foresaid of yearly rent due and payable by me to him for my possession of the lands of Murligan and Glen Glaster, as also upon my granting and performing of this present obligation containing the conditions and provisions after mentioned. Therefore to be bound and obliged, likeas I, the said Angus Macdonell, bind and oblige me, my heirs, executors and successors whomsoever, not only to continue true and faithful to the said Lachlan Mackintosh as his and their Ensigns and Banner Bearers, and to answer and attend him and his forsaids, to perform the said office at all their honourable and lawful occasions when called thereto, but likewise that I and my forsaids, during our possession of the said lands of Murligan and Glen Glaster shall serve and attend the said Lachlan Mackintosh and his above written, with all the fencible men living on the said lands, and all the other fencible men descending of my family (commonly called Sliochd-Donull-vic-Aonas) whom me or mine can stop or lett, in all their reasonable and lawful affairs—except carriages and ariages and such like slavish services as are commonly called and required of common small tenants, always when required thereto upon due and competent premonition—as also to make good and punctual payment of the sum of nine score merks Scots duty yearly for my tack and possession of the said lands of Murligan and Glen Glaster. And in case it shall happen that the said Angus Macdonell of Murligan or my forsaids do prove disobedient, or deficient in performance of the conditions as above, then and in that case, I bind and oblige me and mine above mentioned, to make full payment and satisfaction to the said Lachlan Mackintosh and his above expressed of the said twenty merks allowed me yearly as above, a4d that for all the terms and years from the date hereof to the next term of Whitsunday or Martinmas after our disobedience, if the same shall ever happen, and to forfeit our pretension of bearing the said banner, or receiving any good therefor in all time coming thereafter. And for the said Lachlan Mackintosh and his foresaids their further security in the premises I bind and oblige me and my foresaids to fulfil, implement, and perform all the conditions and provisions above written under the penalty of five hundred merks Scots money by and attour performance, consenting to the registration hereof in the Books of Council and Session or any other Judges books competent, therein to remain for preservation, and if need be that letters of Horning, and all other executorials needful, pass hereon in form as effeirs and to that effect constitute my Procurators. In witness whereof, written by Angus Shaw, factor to the Laird of Mackintosh on this and the preceding page of stamped paper, these presents are subscribed by me at Moyhall, this fourth day of March, one thousand seven hundred and twenty seven years before these witnesses, James Macqueen, younger of Corribrough, and the said Angus Shaw, writer hereof (Signed) "A. MCD" being Angus Macdonell, his ordinary mark. Ja. Mac-queen, witness, Ang. Shaw, witness."
The croft of Lochaber appertaining to the bards of the ancient possessors was at Clachaig, in the midst of the lands granted to Mackintosh and on the West side of the River Spean shortly after it is joined by the River Gulbin. From inattention, neglect, or sufferance in demanding no rent or acknowledgment, when the lordship of Lochaber was afterwards granted to the Gordons Clachaig was held to be included. Here lain Lorn, the immortal bard of Keppoch, lived and died, his remains resting peacefully in the picturesque Dun Aingeal of Kilchaoiril. The whole of Clachaig was only about 150 acres, and being a constant sore to the Mackintoshes, repeated efforts to purchase it were made, but in vain until in 1816, when a sale was effected.
Any one passing through this district by the Fort-William coach will observe the remains of old cultivated land near Clachaig, now part of the splendid farm of Tulloch, and I have in my day wondered who occupied the land, and why it was vacated. There were two traditions regarding Urachar and other townships—one, that there being of old no proper road, and the climate severe, the people had voluntarily left; the other, that the last occupants were such a wild turbulent set that their neighbours in Moy, Torgulbin, Tulloch, and others, demanded their expulsion. Lately I have seen papers which seem to favour the latter view, and they are given to show the lawless disposition of certain Brae Lochaber men, not much more than a century ago, who apparently lived in such comfort as could be afforded by the produce of muir and river, eiked out by thieving.
Donald Macdonell in Daldundearg of Tulloch states that in September, 1779, he had some words with Donald Macdonell, son of Archibald Macdonell in Tulloch, as to hained grass lands, and without provocation was struck in the head with a "naked" dirk, whereby he was wounded and his life endangered. That no sooner was this cruel and barbarous wound given than the said Donald Macdonald ran into the house of the said Archibald Macdonell, his father, and arming himself and his brother Alexander with two guns or fire]ocks, they threatened to shoot any person who would attempt to assist the complainer. That the complainer being a poor man, with a numerous family, was under the necessity of compromising matters by receiving payment of six pounds sterling, for the expense of medicine, doctor's bills, etc.
This story is taken up among other charges by Ronald and Archibald Macdonald's tenants in Moy, and John Macdonald in Torgulbin, in 1781, and thus referred to. After narrating the stroke in the head with the dirk, Donald Macdonell "entered his father's house in Tulloch, and having fully armed himself with two loaded firelocks or guns, in order to defend himself from being apprehended and brought to justice—as he has good cause and reason to believe that a party would be sent after him for that purpose—and accordingly while Donald Macdonell was in danger of life, Alexander Macdonell, tacksman of Tu]loch, his master, with Donald Macdonell, his son, and others, having gone as a party near to the house of the said Donald Macdonell, the culprit, he, the said Donald Macdone]l and Alexander Macdonell, his brother, kept off the said party with the said two loaded guns, threatening to kill the party therewith, before they would allow themselves to be apprehended, or if they, the party, would attempt to come on one step further towards them." Besides the above Donald and Alexander, Archibald had another son, John, and all four kept their neighbours in hot water with their nefarious doings.
Donald Macdonell sold at the Fortingall Fair, November, 1780, two goats, one white with a black head, the other grey; and the sale of the goats being there challenged by Donald Macnab in Inverlair, alleging they had been stolen from him, he, Donald Macdonell, to hush up the matter, paid Macnab more than their value. Archibald Macdonell had no sheep of his own, yet was seen driving several from the farm of Aberarder, tenanted by Mr Mitchell, and both Aberarder and Moy had lost many sheep in an unaccountable manner. Archibald Macdonell was in use of prowling about lands where he had no right, carrying a gun and bag of swan shot, and it was believed he used to shoot and carry away sheep, and more than once sheep were found dead with swan shot in their body. Donald Mackillop, junior, son of Donald Mackillop, a sub-tenant in Tulloch, was told in the hill by Alexander Macdonell to keep his dog tied up, and if not "that the third part of his body would not go home," a curiously expressed threat. Young Mackillop, was however, of a fighting race, and having words on another occasion with Alexander, who snapped his gun at him, Mackillop grappled with him successfully, and deprived him of his gun. Alexander on another occasion, threatened to shoot old Tulloch, his ma-ter, if he interfered with him. Mr Macdonell, Aberarder, having to go to the house of the Macdonells, and the interview not being satisfactory, was abused and threatened by Archibald, the father, armed with a dirk; by Alexander, first with a large knotted stick, thereafter with a loaded gun, and Donald with a cocked pistol, John being present, but not interfering. The meanest of all the charges, with which I conclude, was one by Alexander, who pressed a poor neighbour for repayment of sixpence which he had to reborrow from another neighbour. Not satisfied with the sixpence, Alexander demanded interest, and the debtor saying he had the loan of the sixpence only for a short time was told interest would be taken out of his skin, and he was instantly struck to the ground by a blow in the temple from a stone taken up for the purpose. These Macdonells were in league with one Archibald Bàn Kennedy in Greenfield of Glengarry and they worked into each other's hands, and it is not at all improbable that they were cleared out according to one of the traditions, and no new people substituted.
General Wade chose his route between Lochaber and Badenoch, along the Spey and the Roy, and before his time this was the chief access. It was finished by him up the Roy to the lower marches of Annat and Glenturret, and although he is known to have lived at Leckroy, and probably built the present house, the communication, as a good driving road, was never completed between Dalrioch and Meal Garve. This was an easy road, and for opening up the country, though perhaps not the readiest for passengers, is the best way for a railway between Fort-William and Kingussie. No doubt the making of Loch Laggan coach road was of great importance, and reflects much credit on the three proprietors who made it —the Duke of Gordon, Mackintosh, and Cluny; but there was no road to Loch Laggan of old, properly speaking. At the north, the Drove road from Dalwhinnie passed through Strathmasliic, skirted Brae Laggan, and, passing to the south of Loch Cruineachan, joined the Corryarraick Road before it reached Garvamore. At the south, the road from Rannoch passed Corrour, Fersit, and by Tulloch, keeping close to the bank of the Spean, to Keppoch and High Bridge. There was, as mentioned by Colonel Thornton, an exceedingly bad track as far as the houses of Tullochcrom and Aberarder from the north, but how people got, except on foot, to Maggach, Kyleross, and Moy on the west side of Loch Laggan, and to Inverwidden and Luiblia on the east side, unless by boat, can only be conjectured.
Some particulars of old places, rents, people, and traditions of the Brae will now be given.
First.—Old Rentals.—The whole of Kilmonivaig, east of Loch Lochy, was the property of Mackintosh, the Duke of Gordon, and Letterfinlay, with its cadets of Ratullichs and Annat. I am not able to give any old rental of the latter, only the old rentals of Mackintosh and the Gordons. That of the former for the year 1650 was-
1. Keppoch, Inveroybeg, Achaderry, Bregach, Tollie, Urachar, and Aitmie, £756 13s 4d Scots money, 18 custom wedders, 12 stones of butter, and 12 stone of cheese at converted prices, £96 Scots. Total, £852 1s 4d.
2. Bohuntin, Kinchellie, Achavaddy, and l3ohinie, £280 Scots money; 8 custom wedders, 4 stone butter, 4 stone cheese at converted prices, £36 Scots. Total, £319 Scots.
3. Bohuntinville, Crenachan, Brunachan, Achluachrach and Kilchaorill, £130 Scots; item 12 custom wcdders, 8 stone butter, 8 stone cheese at converted prices, £64 Scots. Total, £494 Scots.
4. Reanach, 666 13s 4d Scots item, 2 custom wedders, 1 stone of butter, and 1 stone of cheese at converted prices, Scots. Total, £75 13s 4d Scots.
5. Bochasky, £40 Scots; item, 2 custorn wedders, 1 stone butter and 1 stone cheese at converted prices, £9 Scots. Total, £49 Scots.
6. Murligan and Glenglaster, £210 Scots item, 5 wedders, 3 stones of butter, and 3 stone of cheese at converted prices, £25 Scots. Total, £235 Scots.
7. Tulloch and Dalindundearg, £210 Scots ; item, wedders, 3 stones of butter and 3 stones of cheese at converted prices, £25 Scots. Total £235 Scots.
8. Blarnahinven, £80 Scots; item, 2 custom wedders, 13½ stone butter, and 13½ stone cheese at converted prices, £11 10s Scots. Total, £9' 105 Scots.
9. Inveroymor, £33 6s 8d Scots.
Total of the Brae, £2382 35 4d Scots, or about £200 sterling.
It may be mentioned that the present land rent is not more than that paid at the beginning of this century.
I now give the Marquis of Huntly's rental, as settled by him "with the men of Lochaber in anno 1667." The Marquis styles the Lochaber occupants as "the men of Lochaber," distinguishing them from those of Badenoch, whom he describes in the lett of 1677 as "the inhabitants of Badenoch." The Marquis' total rent in Kilmonivaig and Kilmaillie was 3535k merks, whereof in Kilmonivaig:-
The above included many smaller possessions, as will be known to those acquainted with the parish, and who will miss such old names as Fersit, Clionaig, Achnacoichan, and others. The present rental of the Gordon lands in Kilmonivaig shows an enormous increase on the foregoing, chiefly sporting rents from forest, muir, and river.
Second.—Old Places and People.—Many old places where important transactions occurred have even in name been forgotten, through merging in others, and the adding of farm to farm. Sheep were fatal to personal occupation, and Brae Roy has suffered, it may be said, extinguishment. What was doing in Annat on 20th October, 1673? The ambitious and no less astute Lord Macdonell and Aros, who had to content himself with that title after having striven in vain for the Earldom of Ross, going to meet the new and equally ambitious Lochaber Chamberlain, fools him bravely, and hails, pen in hand but tongue in cheek, Duncan Macpherson of Cluny, the grandson of Andrew Macpherson, who was happy to act as Mackintosh's forester over his part of the forest of Ben Alder forty years previously, as "Chief and principal man of the baill Macphersons and some others called old Clan Chatten." At Leckroy, on 8th January, 1712, Coll Macdonell of Keppoch, keen, shrewd, and an able penman, completes a transaction for the purchase of twelve mares, eight years old, with six foals, and a stallion, at the price of one thousand merks, from Donald MacAllister Mor, alias Macdonell, in Cullachy of Abertarfi. Keppoch draws out a bond, which is all in his own handwriting, giving John Macdonell of Inveroy and Ronald Macdonell, younger of Clionaig, as his cautioners, having Ronald Macdonald of Gellovie and Archibald Macdonald of Tullochcrom witnesses. General Wade lived for some time and wrote letters from Leckroy. Towards the end of last century the well-known Donald Mor Og Cameron was tenant, betwixt whom, supported by the Duke of Gordon, there was a series of frightful litigations and criminal charges with George Cameron of Letterfinlay, and Fiscal Macpherson. Donald Mor Og, I have often heard, was a grand specimen of the old Highlander, and from its size, his coffin had to be put in and taken out by the window. Coming to Glenturret, so long occupied by a fighting race of Macdonells, it was also the scene of gentlemanly hospitality, terminating with Captain Ranald \Iacdonell, who had married Marcella Maclean of Pennycross. Of the many Glenturrett letters and papers I have, an interesting circumstance consists in the selection of executors by old Glen- turret, Alexander Macdonell, who was at first known as Blarour," showing how little difference in religious views entered at the time into people's heads. Macdonell selected the parish clergyman and the priest, who acted most harmoniously. These were the well-known Dr Thomas Ross of Kilmonivaig, and Father Ranald Macdoncil of Leek, afterwards the well known priest of Uist.
Coming down to Glenroy, Reanach will ever be remembered for its having sheltered Alexander Stuart, Earl of Mar, after his disastrous defeat at Inverlochy, but it and Brunachan are now practically desolate. John Scott, tenant in Brunachan, seems to have been fairly well off; for on 28th April, 1803, he writes that he had at the place 700 sheep, and he sold 100 lambs at 8s 9d each. At Blarnahinven there is now hardly a vestige of former occupation, save a few trees; but let us view it on the second of August, 1679. Then we shall find a comfortable house and a well-to-do tenant of the old stock, in some perplexity as to how to procure the needful for completing a lucrative purchase of cattle, rather beyond his means. At last he makes up his mind to apply to his master, who, though much troubled by refractious tenants, has always shown him kindness, and so he writes to The Right Honourable Lachlan Mackintosh of Torcastle," for the loan of 511 merks, and offers as his securities Ranald Macdonell of Lethindrie, in Duthil parish —a son, I think, of "lain Lom "—and Gorrie Macdonell of Glenturrett. The application was favourably received, and Donald INIacdonell alias Mac-Allister-vic-Aonas-roy, went to Dunachton, and got the money on the 26th of August in presence of Lachlan Mackintosh of Strone. If there were people at any time in Glenglaster, I do not know. Bochasky is also forsaken. In Glen Spean on both sides there is hardly any population until you come to Inverlair and Tulloch respectively ; upon the Gordon side, Fersit, the Loch of the Swords, Bean-a-Bhric, etc., were well-known places, as also the little island at the foot of Loch Treig, the abode of the famous "Owl." Around these localities poetry has left its mark and fancy woven many a pleasing tradition which cannot now be lost, penetrated even as they are by the iron horse with its materialism. There are at present 17 tenants in common in Murligan, Achluachrach, and Glenglaster, etc., which goes by the general term of "Gaelmore." In 1797 there were just 18, and it may interest the men of the Brae to have an authentic list of the joint tenants of that year. The poor people were sadly involved by the failure of one John Macdonell, drover in Dalindundearg, a man of repute and extensive transactions, to whom their stock sales of that year had been given. The others were—Donald Mackillop, and Donald Rankin, managers, Dougald Macintyre, Dougald Rankin, Angus Macgillies, John Rankin, Donald Stalker, Finlay Beaton, Alexander Beaton, John Rankin, Duncan Mackillop, Ewen Cameron, Alexander Maciver, Angus Cameron, Donald Boyle, Donald Beaton, and John Macarthur.
I observe a singular letter, dated 12th November, 1803, from Donald Mactavish, Achaderry, uncle of a boy John Mackintosh, only son to the deceased John Mackintosh, in Easter Bohuntin, complaining that a few days before, the boy, herding in the hill of Bohinie, was fired at without provocation, by "Colin Campbell, son to Duncan Campbell, Strontian, and Ewen Macdonald, son to Glencoe, who were looking for game." Young Glencoe fired the shot, which struck the boy in the face and head, wounding him to the danger of life. The offenders would appear to be both youths, and Campbell instigated the other. The uncle, saying that "he is not able for to keep law with Glencoe," wishes the Procurator-Fiscal to do so. The matter was hushed up and it is likely young Glencoe took warning, for he turned out an honourable man and a distinguished physician in the East India Company's service.
KEPPOCH
Much has been written, and much more could be written, regarding the family of Keppoch, but here I can only give the barest outline. Alexander Carrach, youngest son of John, Lord of the Isles, had in all probability the whole of Lochaber from his father. He was held in high repute by Highlanders, notwithstanding his burning of the Cathedral of Elgin. His estate was forfeited, and it does not seem as if his son and successor, Angus Macdonald, had any further right than the possession of Fersit, by which title he is known. At all events, by 1443, if not earlier, Alexander, Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles, deals with the Brae as his uncontrolled property and gives a charter of it to Mackintosh, without money feu. The Earl's son John being forfeited, Mackintosh thereafter held the Brae, as well as Glenluie and Loch Arkaig—a hundred thousand acres—direct from the Crown. The Macdonalds, however, never lost sight of any chance to recover the lands of Alexander Carrach, and were much aided, in so far as the Brae was concerned, by the Gordons ever since they acquired the lordship of Lochaber about ioo. The Macdonalds were granted tacks by the Gordons to the whole of Kilmonivaig east of the Spean, for some time called "Gergawache"—lands of the value of 40 rnerks of old extent. The Macdonalds and the Camerons, supported by the Gordons, kept Mackintosh in constant trouble, until in 1547, both having given offence to the Earl of Huntly, the latter called in the help of William Mackintosh, who was lucky enough to apprehend both Ewen Allanson of Lochiel and Ronald Mor of Keppoch, and delivered them to Huntly at Elgin, who caused their immediate execution. How foolishly these chiefs acted, and how well Huntly played them off against each other, as circumstances emerged These and such chiefs were the real fighting men and bore the brunt not only of every battle of their own, but also those of their superiors and over lords; whereas, had the chiefs joined amongst themselves, these lords would soon have been cleared out. But no—their own clan and family feuds, notwithstanding marriages of convenience—were their uppermost thought, and they fought the real battles of the over lords, who seldom faced danger themselves, and when they did made but a poor figure, sinking, like Huntly at Corrichie, under the over-protecting weight of their armour, or executing a rapid retreat—some would call it flight—like Argyll at Glenlivet and Inverlochy.
The riddance of Ronald Mor Macdonald, counted as eighth of Keppoch, did not end Mackintosh's troubles, for his successor was concussed by the Regent Moray in 1569 to grant an obligation to come to an arrangement with Keppoch, which would involve his feuing the lands, in all probability for an annual trifling money payment only. The carrying out of this fraudulent design was fortunately stopped by Hamilton's shooting the Regent, known (doubtless as a nickname) as the " Good," in quit of some cruel wrongs.
A temporary truce was patched up between Mackintosh and Keppoch, in 1572, as will be seen by the following, one of the oldest documents I have observed connected with the Brae—
"Be it known to all men by these presents,—Me Ranald vic Donald vic Coll Glass of Gargawache in Lochaber, to be bound and by the tenor hereof; binds and obliges me, my heirs and assignees hereof to serve leally and truly an honourable man, Lachlan Mackintosh of Dunachton and his heirs, by myself; kin and friends, assisters, partakers, and allies, and to take his and their fauld and plain part, assist and concur with him and his heirs, in all and whatever his and their actions, causes, questions, quarrels, and debates which he and his heirs shall happen to have to do with, contrary all mortals, the king's duty and my Lord of Athole allenarly excepted; and that neither I nor my heirs hear or see of his or her, heirs, kin, or friends, evil or skaith, but that I or my heirs shall advertise him and his heirs of the same, and shall give him and his heirs my leal and true counsel in all his actions and causes. As he and they shall require and shall serve him and his heirs leally and truly when and where he or his shall require me or my heirs to do the same, conform to the tenor of the contract made betwixt the said Lachlan and me of the date at Inverness, the 7th June, 1572, under the pains of perjury and inhability and violation of my faith, lealty and honour for ever. In witness whereof to this my bond of manrent subscribed with my hand at the pen led by the nottar under written at my command specially required by me hereto, my proper seal is affixed at the Isle of Moy the 12th June, 1572, before these witnesses, honourable men, James vic Coil Glass of Gask, John Forbes of Tollie, William Cuthbert and John Kerr, burgesses of Inverness; Neil vic Coil vic Neil, servitor to the said Ranald; Donald I)hu vic Ilomnas vic Allister in Badenoch, and Sr John Gibson, parson of Urquhart; Nottar Public with other diverse. . .
The well-known Keppoch, Alexander Macdonald (Allister nan Cleas) gave a similar bond to Mackintosh and his eldest son, Angus, signed at Dunkeld on the 25th January, 1589, before Sir John Stewart of Gartentulich, John Stuart vic Andrew of Inverchynachan, James Stuart of Tillyfourie, William Mac Eachan Macqueen of Corriebrough, and Thomas Gow, Nottar. Keppoch signs with his own hand.
After Glenluic and Loch Arkaig had to be parted with, more determined efforts than ever were made to make the Brae usless to Mackintosh. In these, Keppoch was supported by all the Camerons, except Glenevis—Sir Ewen Cameron personally, as an honourable man, keeping in the back ground. Alister Buidhe, uncle, and reputed murderer and instigator of the assassination of the Keppoch boys, Alexander and Ronald, began the contest, his son Archibald, who died about 1682, keeping it up well. It was reserved, however, for Colt Macdonell, fifteenth of Keppoch, known as "Coll of the cows," to come to the front victorious at the battle of Maolroy, where Mackintosh was ignominiously defeated, with the additional pangs of regret for the prior burning by Keppoch of the old castle of Dunachton, not long rebuilt, with its grounds planted and beautified. Smarting under his treatment, for Government did not bestir itself as wished, Mackintosh declined all Lord Dundee's efforts to get him to rise in 1689, although Lord Dundee was his near relation. In his distress Mackintosh implored and petitioned King William—fortunately in vain—to take the Brae off his hands at £5000 sterling. The Duke of Gordon offered him £3000 sterling and the superiority of all his lands in Badenoch, but this was also fortunately declined. It was about this time that the fortification near the house of Keppoch called the "Sconce" was erected, from which every stone has been removed for the Keppoch buildings.
There are several very handsome larches, which may be 150 years old, and though the railway is too near, even yet the place, if the huge steading were removed, a new house suitable to the importance of the estate erected, and the surroundings laid out and beautified, Keppoch might be made as fine as any place in Lochaber. Coil Macdonell was finally brought to book at Fort-William on the 23rd of May, 1700, and new arrangements being made, both he and his son, the gallant Alexander Macdonell, continued for fifty years, not mere tenants but firm allies and friends of the Mackintoshes. Coil Keppoch's letters are well written, displaying a good knowledge of legal affairs. Alexander the son had a pension of ioo merks from Mackintosh, and this is one of his acknowledgments for his "gratuity," as he terms it, dated Keppoch, 13th January, 1735
"I Alex. Macdonell of Keappoch grant me to have received from Angus Shaw, factor to the Laird of Mackintosh, the soum of one hundred marks Scots money as the said Laird of Mackintosh his gratuity to me for Martinmas one thousand seven hundred and thirty-four years, of the which soum forsaid I grant receipt. In witness whereof I have written and subscribed those presents at Keappoch the 13th of January, one thousand seven hundred and thirty-five years. (Signed) ALEX. MCDONELL."
Alexander Macdonell of Keppoch married Jessie Stuart of Appin, leaving two sons—Ranald his successor; Alexander; and five daughters, Clementina, Anne, Barbara, Jessie, and Catharine. The eldest son, Ranald, married Sarah Cargill, with issue—two sons who died young, when the male representation devolved upon the above Alexander, afterwards Major Macdonald, who had managed his nephew's affairs. Of haughty spirit and temperament, he could not get on with Sir Eneas Mackintosh, who after years of wrangling and difference resolved at last to remove him, and it would seem as if Keppoch and the Macdonells were for ever parted. Major Macdonell removed to Inch, and thereafter to Ireland, and there are descendants in the female line. Mr Alexander Mackintosh, a thriving merchant in Fort- William, was settled in Keppoch, but his circumstances giving way, he had to leave in a very few years. At the beginning of the century, Keppoch was let again to one of the clan Donald, namely, Alexander Macdonald of Glencoe, and later on Mr Angus Macdonell of the family of Keppoch became tenant. He married Miss Christina Macnab, in her own right lineally descended of the old Lords of the Isles. This excellent specimen of the old Highland lady, after the death of her only son, had to relinquish Keppoch and now lives in London with her accomplished daughters. There are still Macdonalds in Keppoch, but Inch, long their habitat, knows them not. The following pathetic notice appeared in the newspapers in 1850 :-
"Died at Keppoch on the 25th March i85o, aged 83, John Macdonell, Esq., the grandson of Keppoch who fell at Culloden and the last Highlander who could say he had the honour of kissing the hand of Charles Edward—Righ nan Gael."
Faithful and true the Keppochs have ever been.
